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Our Sport Science Research

Below is a list of all of the academic, peer reviewed, sport science research conducted by The SPRINT Lab team over the last 15 years.

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  1. Baláš, J., Gajdošík, J., Giles, D. & Fryer, S. (2021). The estimation of critical angle in climbing as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state. Frontiers in Physiology. Impact Factor: 4.566. Link

  2. Baláš, J., Gajdošík, J., Giles, D. & Fryer, S. (2021). Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers? European Journal of Applied Physiology. 121 (5) 1337-1348. Impact Factor: 3.020 Link

  3. Giles, D., Fryer, S., Dickson, T. & Draper, N. (2020). Effect of chronic exposure to height on the psychophysiological responses to a climbing task. The Journal of Sport and Exercise.4(2) 106-111. Link

  4. Fryer, S., Giles, D., Bird, E., Stone, K., Paterson, C., Balas, J., Willems, MET., Potter, JA. & Perkins, I. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. 21 (9) 1290-1298. Impact Factor: 2.781 Link

  5. Giles, D., Hartley, C., Maslen, H., Hadley, J., Taylor, N., Torr, O., Chidley, J.,  Randall, T. & Fryer, S. (2020). An all-out test to determine finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 16 (7) 942-949. Impact Factor:  3.528 Link

  6.  Garrido-Palomino, I., Fryer, S., Giles, D., Gonzalez-Rosa, J. & España-Romero, V. (2020). Attentional differences as a function of rock-climbing performance. Frontiers in Psychology, section: Movement Science and Sport Psychology. 23(11) 1550. Impact Factor: 2.997. Link

  7. Fryer, S., Perkins, IC., Paterson, C., Gloster, C., Willems, MET. & Potter, JA. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances forearm muscle oxygenation during and following isolated exhaustive forearm exercise in intermediate level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition & Exercise Metabolism. In Press (Accepted 11.03.2020). Impact Factor: 2.217 Link

  8. O’Brien, J., Moore, L., Parker, J. & Fryer, S. (2019). Cardiovascular and cerebral hemodynamic responses to ego-depletion in a pressurized sporting task. Special Edition on Ego Depletion: Journal of Sport, Exercise and Performance Psychology. 9 (2) 183-196. Impact Factor: 2.188 Link

  9. Corres, P., Martinez Agguire-Betolaza, A., Fryer, S., Gorostegi-Anduaga, I., Arratibel-Imaz, I., Aispuru, R. & Maldonado-Martin, S. (2019). Long-term Effects in the EXERDIET-HTA Study: Supervised Exercise Therapy Training vs. Physical Activity Advice. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport. 91 (2) 209-218. Impact Factor: 2.032  link

  10. Giles, D., Chidlet, J., Taylor, N., Torr, O., Hadley, J., Randall. & Fryer, S. (2019). The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 14(7) 972-979. Impact Factor: 3.384 Link

  11. Fryer, S., Stone, K., Dickson, T., Wilhelmsen, A., Cowen, D., Faulkner, J., Lambrick, D. & Stoner, L. (2019). The effects of 4 weeks normobaric hypoxia training on microvascular responses in the forearm flexor. Journal of Sport Sciences. 37(11) 1235-1241. Impact Factor: 2.733 Link

  12. Fryer. S., Stone, K. J., Dickson, T., Faulkner, J., Lambrick, D., Corres, P., Jerred, L. & Stoner., L. (2018). Reliability of oscillometric central blood pressure responses to lower limb resistance exercise. Atherosclerosis. (268), 157-162. Impact Factor: 4.239 Link

  13. Fryer, S., Giles, D., Garrido, I, de la O Puerta, A. & España-Romero, V. (2018). Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 32 (12), 3534-3541. Impact Factor: 1.978 Link

  14. Giles, D., España Romero, V., Garrido, I, de la O Puerta, A., Stone, K. & Fryer, S. (2017). Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 12(1), 137 - 139. Impact Factor 3.384 Link

  15. Fryer, S. & Stoner, L. (2016). Rebuttal: near-infrared spectroscopy derived forearm oxygenation does predict rock climbing performance. Journal of Sport Sciences. 34(22), 2154. Impact Factor: 2.401 Link

  16. Stoner, L., Geoffron, M., Cornwall, J., Chinn, V., Gram, M., Credeur, D. Fryer, S. (2016). Reliability of central adiposity assessments using B-mode ultrasound: a comparison of linear- and curved-array transducers. 32(4), 342-348. Impact Factor: 0.792 Link

  17. Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Giles, D., Sveen, J., Garrido, I. & España-Romero. (2016). Forearm muscle oxidative capacity predicts sport rock-climbing performance. Journal of European Applied Physiology.116 (8), 1479-1484. Impact Factor: 2.187 Link

  18. Draper, N., Giles, D., Schoffl, V., Fuss, FK., Watts, P., Wolf, P., Balas, J., Espana-Romero, V., Gonzalez, GB., Fryer, S., Franchini, M., Vigouroux, L., Seifert, L., Donath, L., Spoerri, M., Bonetti, K., Phillips, K., Stocker, U., Bourassa-Moreau, F., Garrido, I., Drum, S., Beekmeyer, S., Ziltener, JL., Taylor, N., Beeretz, I., Mally, F., Amca, AM., Linhart, C. & Abreu, E. (2015). Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement. Sports Technology. 8(3-4), 88-94. Impact Factor 0.615 Link

  19. Balás, J., Michailov, M., Giles, D., Kodejska, J., Panackova, M. & Fryer, S. (2015). Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. 16(7), 762 - 772. Impact Factor 1.550 Link

  20. Siegel, S. & Fryer, S. (2015). Rock climbing for promoting physical activity in youth. American Journal of Lifestyle Medicine. 11(3). Impact Factor 0.293 Link

  21. Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Draper, S., Hughes, J., How, S., McCluskey, M. & Draper, N. (2015). Oxygenation recovery kinetics post intermittent and sustained contractions to failure in elite rock climbers. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 6(29), 1633-1639. Impact Factor 1.858  Link

  22. Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Scarrott, C., Lucero, A., Cole, M., Dickson, T. & Draper, N. (2015). Hemodynamic kinetics during intermittent forearm contractions in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Medicine. 2(36), 137-142. Impact Factor 2.268 Link      

  23. Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Scarrott, C., Lucero, A., Witter, T., Love, R., Dickson, T. & Draper, N. (2015). Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Journal of Sport Sciences. 5(33), 518-526. Impact Factor 2.095 Link

  24. Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Hillier, S., Draper, N., Stoner, L., Lucero, A. & Witter, T. (2014). A comparison of salivary, capillary, venous and cortisol sampling following intense maximal exercise. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 6(9), 973-977. Impact factor 2.683 Link

  25. Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Draper, N., and Blackwell, G., Hillier, S. (2012). A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine and Science in Sports. 23(5), 645-650. Impact factor 3.175 Link

  26. Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Draper, N., Eltom, M., Stoner, L. & Blackwell, G. (2012). The effect of technique and ability on the V̇O2 heart rate relationship in rock climbing. Sports Technology, 5,143-150 Link

  27. Fryer, S., Hillier, S., Dickson, T., Draper, N., Stoner, L., Winter, D., Young, J. & Cohen, L. (2012). Capillary cortisol sampling during high-intensity exercise. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 33, 842-845. Impact Factor 2.268 Link  

  28. Dickson, T., Fryer, S., Draper, N., Winter, D., Ellis, G. & Hamlin, M. (2012) Comparison of plasma cortisol sampling sites for rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 52(6), 688-695.Impact Factor 0.730 Link

  29. Dickson, T., Fryer, S., Draper, N. & Blackwell, G. (2011). Effect of style of ascent on the psychophysiological demand of rock climbing in elite level climbers. Sports Technology, 5, 111-119. Impact Factor 0.356 Link

  30. Fryer, S., Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Winter, D., & Ellis, G. (2011). Comparison of lactate sampling sites for rock climbing. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 32, 428-432. Impact Factor 2.268 Link   

  31. Draper, N., Couceiro, J., Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Winter, D., Ellis, G., et al. (2011). Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing. Isokinetics and Exercise Science, 19(4), 1-8. Impact Factor 0.609 Link

  32. Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Fryer, S., Priestley, S., Winter, D. & Ellis, G. (2011). Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing, Journal of Sports Sciences, 29(8), 1-8. Impact Factor 2.095 Link

  33. Draper, N., Dickson, T., Fryer, S. & Blackwell, G. (2011). Performance differences for intermediate rock climbers who successfully and unsuccessfully attempted an indoor sport climbing route. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 11(3), 450-463. Impact Factor 0.583 Link

  34. Draper, N., Fryer, S., Dickson, T. & Blackwell, G. (2011). Plasma cortisol concentrations and perceived anxiety in response to on-sight rock climbing. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 33(01), 13-17. Impact Factor 2.268 Link   

  35. Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Priestly, S., Fryer, S., Marshall, H., Shearman, J., Hamlin, M., Winter, D & Ellis, G. (2010). Sport specific power assessment for rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 51(3), 417-25. Impact Factor 0.730 Link

  36. Draper, N. Jones, G. A. Fryer, S. Hodgson, C. I. & Blackwell, G. (2010). Physiological and psychological responses to lead and top rope climbing for intermediate rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 10(1), 13-20. Impact Factor 1.314 Link

  37. Hodgson, C. I. Draper, N. McMorris, T. Jones, G. Fryer, S. & Coleman, I. (2009). Perceived anxiety and plasma cortisol concentrations following rock climbing with differing safety rope protocols. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 43(7), 531-535. Impact Factor 4.340 Link

  38. Draper, N. Jones, G. A. Fryer, S. Hodgson, C. & Blackwell, G. (2008). Effect of an on-sight lead on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing. Journal of Sports Science and Medicine, 7(4), 492-498. Impact Factor 3.493 Link

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