Rock Climbing Performance
Why sport science testing is important for rock climbers?
Understanding your body’s physiological limitations is key to improving your rock climbing performance. The sport science tests offered by The SPRINT Lab have all been used to help improve the performance of elite level athletes nationally and internationally. These tests are not only delivered by The SPRINT Lab, but many of them were developed by our lead sport scientist Dr Simon Fryer whose PhD focused on understanding performance characteristics in rock climbers. You can find out more on his performance related rock climbing research here.
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We offer a Climbing Performance Package which can be tailored to your individual needs depending on your discipline and needs.
Climbing Performance Package
Cost
£139
Duration
2 - 2.5 hours
Test details
When you arrive at the laboratory you have an explanation of the different tests. We will then have a brief discussion about your expectations, current training regime, and your performance goals.
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Before conducting a warm-up, you will lay supine on a bed for 10 minutes before we test your body composition. After this we will use near infrared spectroscopy to determine the ability of your forearm muscles to perfuse oxygen, termed oxidative capacity. We developed this test in our laboratory, and our research shows it explains 53% of sport climbing performance. After this we will assess your metabolic rate to determine your energy demands using gas analysis (optional extra) before conducting an extensive warm up. We will then focus on assessing your upper body and lower body dynamic strength, and the stretch-shortening cycle. Using a Lattice rung with a built-in force transducer we will also be able to assess your rate of force development (explosive power - how quickly you can create force) as well as your endurance capabilities using a contraction; rest ratio to suit your goals. We will end with a flexibility assessment before cooling down.
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As there is a significant amount of data analysis involved in these assessments, we will generate a detailed report for your ease. We will email this to your shortly after your visit. We will follow this up with a MS Teams call or phone call to discuss your report and answer any questions you may have.
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What you get
1. Forearm muscle oxygenation ability (oxidative capacity assessment)
2. Maximal grip strength (open/closed crimp).
3. Forearm rate of force development assessment
4. Forearm endurance assessment (intermittent contractions to failure)
5. Explosive upper and lower body power assessment (eccentric utilisation ratio)
6. Body composition assessment (lean muscle mass, fat mass)
7. Flexibility assessment
8. Optional Extra – Metabolic assessment (£50 to determine your metabolic energy requirements)
Test Re-Test Climbing Performance Package
Why should you re-test?
Following a period of training your climbing will have improved. In order to tailor your training, and meet your performance goals, you will need to reassess to adjust your training accurately. We suggest 12 weeks is an optimal time to do this.
Test Re-Test Climbing Performance Package
Cost
£249 (10% Discount)
Duration
2 to 2.5 hours
Test details
When you arrive at the laboratory we have a brief discussion about your current training regime, and your performance goals have changed from your last visit.
​
Similar to your pre-test, before conducting a warm-up, you will lay supine on a bed for 10 minutes before we test your body composition. After this we will use near infrared spectroscopy to determine the ability of your forearm muscles to perfuse oxygen, termed oxidative capacity. We developed this test in our laboratory, and our research shows it explains 53% of sport climbing performance. After this we will assess your metabolic rate to determine your energy demands using gas analysis (optional extra) before conducting an extensive warm up. We will then focus on assessing your upper body and lower body dynamic strength, and the stretch-shortening cycle. Using a Lattice rung with a built-in force transducer we will also be able to assess your rate of force development (explosive power - how quickly you can create force) as well as your endurance capabilities using a contraction; rest ratio to suit your goals. We will end with a flexibility assessment before cooling down.
​
As there is a significant amount of data analysis involved in these assessments, we will generate a detailed report for your ease. We will email this to your shortly after your visit. We will follow this up with a MS Teams call or phone call to discuss your report and answer any questions you may have.
​
What you get
1. Forearm muscle oxygenation ability (oxidative capacity assessment)
2. Maximal grip strength (open/closed crimp).
3. Forearm rate of force development assessment
4. Forearm endurance assessment (intermittent contractions to failure)
5. Explosive upper and lower body power assessment (eccentric utilisation ratio)
6. Body composition assessment (lean muscle mass, fat mass)
7. Flexibility assessment
8. Optional Extra – Metabolic assessment (£50 to determine your metabolic energy requirements)